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Showing posts with the label DnD

Some of my Favourite Prints of the Past Couple Months

Hey guys, as I haven't done a print of the month in a little while, I thought this week I'd just share with you all a few of the prints I'm most happy with from the past couple of months.  If you follow me on Instagram (If not why not?!) you may have seen these before. I'm going to split this post into tree sections; "Functional prints", "Projects" and "Just for fun". Functional prints Both of these prints are for the redecorating of our second room, which is currently in full swing.  We both have new desks and have converted the space where my wife's old desk was into a workspace for projects!! I will definitely do a post with photos when the room is finished, but for now I have printed a couple of items to help keep the room nice and tidy.  First we wanted to mount the Google Home Mini to the wall like we did in the bedroom, so I printed another "invisible" mount; It looks great and keeps the speaker firmly in plac...

DLP Printing on the Anycubic Photon

Hey guys, slight disclaimer here, I don't actually own a Photon.  I would love to, but at the moment it just isn't on the cards.  One of my friends, however, has just bought one and i wanted to take a moment to talk about the quality of the prints. ( Go and check out his Instagram here! ) If you remember back to my post about the different types of 3D Printing you'll remember that DLP is the process of curing resin one layer at a time using a UV LCD screen.  Meaning that can be faster than both FDM and true SLA.  I do feel it loses a bit of sharpness on the details against a print on a true SLA machine like the Form2 but for nearly a tenth of the price (less than a tenth if you factor in the curing stations from Formlabs) you can't really complain. At the time of writing the Photon is for sale for around £410, which is insanely good value for a resin printer that can produce prints of this quality. Another huge benefit of DLP printing is that it cures ...

Ovion's Battletech 3D Printable Models

Hey guys, this week I wanted to draw attention to the Patreon of a guy on the Battletech Discord. He's a freelance 3d modeler and is doing some really cool stuff for tabletop Battletech, Warhammer and Dungeons & Dragons communities. As I know him from the Battletech Discord (Come check it out by the way) I'm going to showcase some of the models he's put up on his Patreon in relation to the game with the big stompy mechs!  All of his models are created by him from scratch and they look great!  I won't put any names with them, for copyrighting reasons, but I'm sure you Battletech fans out there will be able to figure out what's what. I picked a small selection of his models to show here, but go check out his page for the whole lot and he is releasing new models all the time. Tanks 'Mechs If you don't see what you like or if Battletech isn't your thing, he does commissions for custom models so it would definitely be wor...

Miniature Scales

First things first, I think  I have solved the jamming issue I talked about last week!  All seems to be running smoothly for the moment so fingers crossed it should be good for now.  I probably will order myself a set of new nozzles anyway just in case something like this does happen again. In the past I have found myself talking to people about scales in tabletop gaming (I know, life of the party right?) and being met with a blank stare so this week I'd thought I'd quickly go over some of the scales relevant to the games I've previously mentioned on my blog and how they are worked out. Probably the most popular scale in modern wargaming and tabletop gaming would be 28mm or 1:64.  Most well known miniature games use it, for example Heroforge , DnD and Games Workshop all use 28mm scale miniatures. Although Games Workshop uses 28mm, their models appear larger due to the bulkier sculpting and style.  This is also sometimes referred to as 'Heroic scale'....

GUIDE: Creating supports in Meshmixer

Hey guys, one of the most important things to think about when 3D printing is the support material.  With out sufficient support, models with steep overhangs or floating parts will simply fail to print correctly and you will end up with a pile of spaghetti. Most slicing programs will be able to create their own support, as mentioned in my "How to print" series of posts, however, for some models this is simply not good enough.  The most widely used alternative is Meshmixer, and in this post we're going to look at how to generate support material using it's analysis tools. Import the model, this step is fairly self explanatory.  Open Meshmixer and import the model you wish to print, either by clicking on the import button on the home screen and navigating to your model, or dragging your model into the program. I'll be using the standard bunny included in the program for this tutorial. Head over to the menu bar on the left of the screen and click on anal...